After an express cleanse with micellar water, I always mist my client’s skin with a hydrating toner/mist to refresh the skin and boost hydration. It really helps for better absorption of your treatment serums as the skin is slightly damp! My personal fav is the Elemis Rehydrating Ginseng Toner. Before the toner dries completely, add 3-4 drops of your chosen serum onto your fingers and press/pat onto the client’s skin. I love Dermalogica’s Skin Hydration Booster!
To help your client’s makeup last longer, apply a small amount of moisturiser and apply around the outer perimeters of the face. The excess amount should be pressed onto the skin for the T-Zone area. The T-Zone area for most people is the most oily/shiny. So less is more there!
As part of the skin prep, I always saturate one cotton pad/cotton round with water and get the client to firmly wipe over their lips. This helps to lightly exfoliate, remove dead flaky skin and dampen the lips ready for lip balm. Trust me, lipstick will go on much more smoothly and evenly!
Try to allow roughly 4 mins for the skincare products to absorb into the skin properly before makeup application. This will prevent any ‘balling’ of other products applied on top and help the foundation last longer. Layering too quickly can cause the foundation to slip and slide and become patchy.
I like to use a buffing foundation brush to apply the foundation to even out the skin tone, with a very minimal amount. I then spray a disposable sponge with water to soften the texture, so it feels nicer on the skin and helps prevent the sponge from soaking up too much foundation. I use the sponge after the brush application to build on coverage where necessary.
Before eyeshadow, I like to groom the brows first to map out the eyes and frame them. This way I get a good idea of what I’m working with. I always use 4 products for a polished looking brow. I use an eyebrow pencil (love the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz pencils), disposable mascara wand (to blend the product and groom brows) and a flat concealer or lip brush with a tiny amount of concealer, to clean up around the edges for a clean brow (acts like a makeup eraser) and a brow gel to finish (Hourglass Arch Brow Volumizing Fiber Gel all the way)!
When over-lining lips, only over line by a smidge on the cupids bow and under the bottom lip (there’s a natural shadow under the bottom lip so you can get away with over-lining there). Keep to the natural lip line on both sides of the top and bottom lip to appear natural and avoid that ‘duck lip’. The bottom lip should be slightly larger than the upper to give a natural pout.
Applying eyeliner on the top water line can be tricky with some clients. Get them to keep their eyes closed. With your thumb, press gently on the brow bone or where their eye socket/crease is to slightly lift their eyes open. While open, apply the eyeliner in little dashes until you fill in the whole water line. Applying eyeliner on the top lash line and top water line will give the illusion of a fuller lash!